General

Mostly toproped face climbing on pocketed sandstone; routes are 30-90 feet in length. There's a fair number of trad climbs to do too, and a single 5.10 sport climb!

1. Buzz Off: 5.8, a good climb on solid rock. There used to be a beehive right next to a solution pocket on this route (which is where its name originated), but the bees are gone now.

Directions from Hyde Park

The drive is about 2 1/2 hours. Closest city is Savanna, IL.

• Take 55th Street (Garfield) west, to 90/94
• Take 90/94 West (toward Wisconsin), for about 3 miles
• Take the 290W exit
• Take 290W about 12 miles to 88W
• Take 88W about 55 miles to 39N
• Take 39N about 7 miles to IL 64 W
• Stay on 64 West (after ~30 miles, it will hit a T-intersection.turn right, then left soon afterwards, to stay on 64)
• 64 West will merge into US 52 West
• US 52 will hit a 3-way intersection with IL 84.take IL 84 N
• If you cross the Mississippi river at some point, you did something wrong! Check the map!!
• Take 84N through Savanna, after about 5 miles you will pass the SOUTH entrance to Mississippi Palisades State Park (this is where the climbing is.) after another ½ mile you will get to the NORTH (camping & park office) entrance to the park.
• Great job - high fives all around.

NOTES:

1. There is a State Police headquarters near De Kalb (on 88W near the intersection with 39N), so don't speed too much in that area
2. Be sure you're going about the speed limit when passing through the towns along IL 64 and IL 52, they're notorious for giving tickets
3. The De Kalb Oasis is a good place to stop for some food

Mississippi Palisades State Park

General

Mostly toproped face climbing on pocketed sandstone; routes are 30-90 feet in length. There's a fair number of trad climbs to do too, and a single 5.10 sport climb! Getting there: (Click for directions)

Amenities

Camping is available at the park's north entrance for $8 a night; they have running water, showers, etc. The town of Savanna boasts a Subway, Hardee's, Taco Bell and KFC for your caloric needs. There is also a supermarket in town (Sullivan Foods), and a combination bar and tattoo parlor - what a great idea!!

Climbs

A guidebook is handy for finding the routes and the various areas; most Chicago area climbing shops sell the book "River Rock: A Climber's Guide to Mississippi Palisades State Park." Here are my favorite areas and climbs....

• The Sentinel: The most popular (and usually most crowded) area at the park.
  1. Sentinel East Face: The hyper-classic climb of this area, an 80-foot 5.4 climb up the side of the Sentinel pillar. Easily protected, with 2 bolts at the top and great views. Sure, it's only 5.4, but it's tons of fun!
  2. Overexposed: A great climb on the river face of the Sentinel's south tower (lower off the back side to the ledge that's 40 feet off the ground to start the route). It's really, really exposed--you're 250 feet up on a narrow pillar, with the Mississippi river at your back!
  3. The Pretzel: A great 5.9 crack climb, with a fun crimp at the crux.
  4. Blank Wall: a 5.10d with some bulges, and thin fingers -- including one-finger pockets and dicey little crimps at the crux.
  5. Fourth Crack: A good 5.8- to try out.

• Ampitheater Wall: Long, exposed routes right on the Mississippi river!
  1. Bruce's Jam: A super 5.8 trad jam crack, that gets kinda wide near the top at the crux...be sure to bring along that #3.5 Camalot for pro! Chains at the top.
  2. Hamilton's Arch: A 5.8 trad climb, right next to Bruce's Jam. Probably my favorite climb at the Palisades, with easy protection in the dihedral crack. Use the bolts at the top of Bruce's Jam to finish the route; the crumbly face leading to the summit isn't worth the effort.
  3. Fear of Flying: 2-pitch 5.9 trad climb...I've been meaning to get around to it, as it's supposed to be the best climb at the park! Sure looks nice from the ground at least.
  4. 5.10 sport route: Not in the guidebook, and I don't know its name...but it's just to the left of Fear of Flying. Somewhat balancy face climbing, ~7 bolts, with chains at the top.

• Twin Sisters: A popular beginner's area.
  1. Difficult Crack: A short little 5.8 route, but tons of fun: straight hand & foot jamming. Makes a nice little lead, with protection that couldn't be easier.
  2. Bee Wall: Tall & exposed, with lots of climbs. But watch out for loose rock - wear a helmet!
  3. Shady Lane: A long, cruisy 5.5 dihedral.
  4. Ominous Extension: 5.9...one of the most fun cruxes around. As the name implies, a long reach is involved.
  5. Buzz Off: 5.8, a good climb on solid rock. There used to be a beehive right next to a solution pocket on this route (which is where its name originated), but the bees are gone now.